I took out the old control board and the power supply, but kept the fuse holders and the solid state relay for the spindle. I then rough mapped out where I wanted the components: main power supply in the front corner, stepper drivers across the center, and the C10 breakout board at the back, positioned such that the port would attach right where the 'MACHINE' decal was, which got it close enough to center to have good wiring access.
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| Rough Layout of Enclosure Box |
To get the DB25 (printer/parallel) port on the C10 board out the back, I had to increase the size of the existing cutout. A little Google searching led to these dimensions for a DB25 port from cabledepot.com:
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| DB25 Cutout Dimensions |
I rigged this up on my mill and cut in the new port. This could easily be expanded with a Dremel tool or similar for those without a mill that has enough Z travel to fit the box.
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| Milling Enlarged DB25 Opening |
After that was some CAD work to punch in new holes for the drives, power supply, and breakout board. I've attached the hole pattern in an image below in case someone wants to use this as a starting point. I stress this was based off rough measurements, and some adjustment was required, especially with the breakout board (had to slot the holes slightly to get it to fit, so please verify on your own. This fits the KL-4030 stepper drives pretty well (a little tight), such that the flats of the nut hit the sides so you do not need to get a wrench in there. All these holes were punched in on the mill as well.
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| Enclosure Hole Pattern |
Link to the higher resolution .pdf: PDF of Bolt Pattern
The documentation on the C10 board from cnc4pc (see here) states that the board should always be powered up if the computer is, due to risk of interference causing unintended movement. Instead of having a separate power supply to worry about or running another cable from the PC, I wanted to run a small power supply off of the same power switch as the main, such that they both turned on at the same time. The C10 requires 5 VDC at 400 mA. I've had several Android phones over the years, so pulled out an old charger to see it fit the bill. Sure enough, most that I found give 5VDC at over 400 mA, so I busted one open to see if I could adopt it here.
Here's what I'm talking about. This is a different charger but I've lose the image of what the charger looked like originally. I suspect almost any cell phone charger will do, as long as it has enough output capacity. All the phones I've got have a USB output.
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| Phone Charger Similar To That Used For 5VDC Supply |
To mount it, I grabbed a couple of Nylon spacers from Home Depot and tapped the ends for a 10-32 screw. I roughed up the other ends with some coarse sandpaper and then used JB Weld epoxy to attach them to the bottom of the board (I did a little research, didn't seem to be a standout solution for bonding Nylon. The JB Weld is working for me, but is probably pretty fragile, so I handled it with care. JB Weld is non conductive.). Not a lot of room there due to the components, so it didn't come out looking very fancy.
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| Spacers For 5V Power Supply |
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| 5VDC Power Supply Board With Spacers In Its Proposed Location |
I soldered on some wire to the two line power contacts with some quick contacts at the ends. On the charger I used, along with my others, the plug does not appear polarized, so I don't think you need to worry too much about figuring out which contact is hot and which is neutral.
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| 5VDC Power Supply With Wires and Supports Attached |
In the next post I'll talk about why it's important to try you equipment when you receive it.
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